The
island is the second largest in Greece, after Crete. Long and
narrow, it stretches over the Aegean Sea very close alongside
the shores of Mainland Greece, separated from it by the Gulf of
Euboea and the famous Evripos Straits. A main highway and ferryboats
from several terminals form the links with this island space,
which is a center of attraction for those seeking natural beauty
and scenic variety. There is something of interest to be seen
at every turn in Euboea. Towns brisk with tourist traffic or peaceful
villages, apparently forgotten by time.
There are large fertile valleys and wooded mountainsides where
mountain climbers can enjoy themselves as much as those opting,
instead, for the attractions of the seashores with their excellent
sandy beaches, organized bathing facilities and charming secluded
coves.
Modern
life thrives alongside splendidly preserved tradition. There are
picturesque country fairs where genuine, local customs survive.
Euboea can promise and indeed offer its guests all this.
By
road, Chalkida, the island’s capital, is accessible from
a fork on the main Athens- Lamia highway. A swing bridge carries
traffic across the narrow Evripos Straits with their tidal current,
which Aristotle tried hard to explain in ancient times. The name
Chalkida, taken by the town, which has been built over the site
occupied by a very ancient city, is said to originate either from
the copper which its inhabitants processed in olden times (Halkos
means copper in Greek) or from the word “Halki”, which
means a form of shell, used in antiquity for dying red fabrics.
The ancient city was a renowned trading center, which established
several colonies and contained famous temples dedicated to Zeus,
Apollo and the goddess Hera.
The
archaeological museum in the town contains notable exhibits such
as the headless statue of the goddess Athena, the relief of Dionysus,
the abduction of Antiope by Theseus and others. The Byzantine
basilica of Aghia Paraskevi, located within the compound of the
mediaeval fortress, contains coats of arms and inscriptions of
the 14th century. The modern town has several hotels and its restaurants
specialise in fish dishes.
Chalkida
is the ideal starting point for an exploration of the whole island.
Southward the road leads to Eretria, which, in ancient times,
was the second most important city on the island, after Chalkida.
It was a major maritime power and the standard of its intellectual
activities was high. It was in Eretria that, in the 3rd century
B.C., Menedimos, one of Plato’s pupils, founded the Eretrian
School of Philosophy. Excavations, undertaken in 1891, reveal
many monuments and statues. Interesting objects for the visitor
to see are the ancient baths, the remains of the Temple of Dafniforos
Apollo, the Palaestra with its fine mosaic and the ancient theater,
unique in that it had a subterranean passage for use by the actors.
 The
ancestral homes of several renowned seafarers still stand in the
town. In the museum there are finds dating back to prehistoric,
archaic, classic and Hellenistic times. Eretria is also accessible
by ferryboat from Oropos. The road from Chalkida to Eretria passes
by the fine Malakonta beach which has ample facilities for tourists
and then goes through the village of Vassiliko, which possesses
distinctive local colour and a Venetian tower. Close by are the
seaside settlements of Lefkanti and Kambos.
Continuing
south along the coastal road, on the shores of the Gulf of Euboea,
one comes upon the township of Amarinthas, which has a fine beach,
tranquil surroundings and plenty of attractive fish dishes to
offer. Nearby are the Byzantine churches of Metamorfossis and
Kimissis Theotokou. At Vlihas there is a Macedonian grave. Ana
Vathia is a quaint village with its Byzantine church of Zoodochos
Pighi and the monastery of Aghios Nikolaos. Following along the
foothills of Mt. Skliro, the road leads into the town of Aliveri
with its spreading plain, its old tower and church of Aghios Loukas.
In the same district stands the church of Aghios Nikolaos, which
contains well-preserved Byzantine frescoes. At Aliveri there is
a major electric power station.
Continuing
south, the road comes upon the fork for Lepaurs from which it
leads to Karistas. The area is thick with pinewoods and, in the
past, fossils of pre-historic animals were found there. Inland
lies the township of Stira where lots of streams flow amid spreading
plane trees. There is also an ancient citadel. Nea Stira is on
the coast, along a peaceful bay, which gives on to the Gulf of
Euboea. It has well equipped bathing beach facilities. It is in
this area that the “Dragon’s Houses” (“Spilia
tou Drakou”) stand, consisting of huge, ancient blocks of
stone. Further South is the village of Marmari.
All
around are picturesque sites and excellent beaches. There is a
ferryboat service to Rafina. Offshore is the islet of Petali.
Still further south, the road follows the foothills of Mt. Ochi,
whose summit has an altitude of 1398 M, and leads to Karistos,
a town with a very ancient history, said to have been built by
the Dryopes. The Venetians named it Castel Rosso because of the
red stone with which they built their fortress there. It still
stands.Another site worth visiting is Palaiochora where there
are remains of ancient buildings and the noteworthy Byzantine
church of Taxiarchon. There is also the Aghia Triada grotto with
its spacious galleries.
If
one goes back to the Lepoura fork and takes the road leading northeast,
it will first skirt the well-wooded Mt. Dirfi (altitude 1,745
m.), which is the tallest mountain in Euboea. It then leads to
the township of Kimi, which stands high up on the cliff, 250 m.
above sea level, like a balcony overlooking the Aegean Sea.  It
is a town built with characteristic island picturesqueness. Many
of its houses retain their pure traditional architecture. Directly
opposite is the island of Skyros. Recently the Educational and
Cultural Association of Kimi founded the town’s Folkloric
Museum, which is housed in a typical neo-classic building. The
exhibits cover the period from the year 1800 A.D. to the period
between the two Great World Wars. Kimi has been known since ancient
times and it is said that the town existed even before the Trojan
War.
The
surrounding district has numerous attractive villages, beaches,
monasteries and plenty of woodland. At Honeftiko, set among poplar
and fir trees, is a well-known medicinal spring. At Ano Patamia
there are remains of an ancient city. The convent of Sotiros is
tucked away on a steep slope. There is also a small, weather-beaten
fortress, built by the Franks. The convent of Aghiou Haralambous
Lefkon is also worth seeing. The Port of Kimi – called Paralia,
4 km from the town – is the departure point for ships calling
at the Sporades islands.
If
one sets out north from Chalkida, into the mountainous heart of
the island of Euboea, the road leads to Steni Dirfias which is
set in among plane trees with running streams, fir trees, pine
trees and thick scrub which clings to the slopes of Mt. Dirfys.
Both settlements of this village maintain their strict traditional
character. It is the starting point for the climb to the alpine
rest hut. Another very picturesque village in this area is Stropones.
The outlet to the Aegean Sea from here is at Heiliadou, which
has a fine beach and a church of the Kimissis Theotokou. The main
motor highway, which traverses Northern Euboea, goes past Nea
Artaki, dotted with tavernas, which serve fish food as their speciality.
Nearby is the church of Faneromeni. Psahna, an attractive village
a little further on, is the gateway to the hinterland of Northern
Euboea. Politika is next with its Byzantine church of the Theotokou.
As
the road begins to climb, the country becomes more wooded with
plane trees, pine trees and firs. It is an astounding trip to
the village of Prokopi with its church of Aghios loannis Rossos
that attracts numerous pilgrims. The large village of Mantoudi,
beyond Prokopi, overlooks the plain of ancient Kirintha from a
height. There are plane trees and pine trees everywhere. The road
then descends the mountainside of Kandili and passes through picturesque
villages such as Skepasti and Kehries. The road leads into Limni
a really charming township with a long history and well preserved
traditions whose white houses are reflected in the waters of the
Gulf of Euboea. According to legend, this was the site of ancient
Elimnion where the wedding of Zeus to the goddess Hera was held.
The ancient temple was destroyed by earthquake. Sites worth visiting
are the excellent mosaics of the early Christian church, the chapel
of Zoodochos Pighi and the well known convent of Galataki, built
over the site of an ancient temple of Poseidon amid very impressive
scenery and an almost incredible solitude. The convent is occupied
by nuns.
There
is also the attractive village of Rovies set in among olivegroves,
which stretch right down to the sea. In this area, in ancient
times, there was the “infallible oracle” of the Selinountios
Apollo. In the same area stands the monastery of Osiou David Geronta,
which contains fine 17th century frescoes.
 Driving
on in the direction of the Aegean seaboard, the road leads into
Aghia Ana, also known as Ayana which is really one of the most
charming parts of all Euboea as it retains its strong traditional
style, its customs and country fairs. The neighbouring Angali
beach is also attractive with its extensive sands. The road then
leads to Artemision, which is a Cape looking across the straits
towards Mt. Pelion. Its ancient history is linked to the goddess
Artemis who was supposed to go there hunting. There are remains
of a temple dedicated to her. Other sites worth seeing are the
churches of Aghia Paraskevi and Aghios Georgios. Slightly further
North is the picturesque village or Pefki set in a pine forest.
It has a fine beach. The road then traverses the peaceful and
fertile plain of Istiea, which Homer described as “polystafyllon”
(land of the many vines). According to legend, this is where the
sacred bulls of the goddess Hera grazed. Orei, which is the port
for Istiea, has characteristics entirely peculiar to itself with
a Frankish fortress separating the town into two parts. To the
West stand the ruins of another castle built upon the site of
an earlier citadel. In the township there is the Byzantine church
of Aghios Vasilios. Orei owe its importance to its dominating
geographical position where, since olden times, it has been astride
the channel which separates Euboea from the coast of Fthiotida
opposite. Another, nearby pleasant seaside spot is Agiokambos
with tavernas, which specialise in fish dishes. Its port is the
starting point for the ferryboats to Glifa on the opposite coast.
Turning
back towards the Gulf of Euboea, the road leads to another important
town on the island. This is the Edipsos spa, known since ancient
times for its medicinal springs, mentioned by both Aristotle and
Strabo and, nowadays one of the best-known Greek holiday resorts.
It flourished in Roman times. On a hill close to Edipsos, lie
the remains of the ancient city. There are remains of Roman baths
at Aghii Anargyri and the Sylla Hot Springs (“Thermai”)
near the sea. To the Northwest of Edipsos there is attractive
countryside. Gialtra is a picturesque village in well-wooded surroundings
with a good beach and natural medicinal springs. Its church of
Theotokou has interesting frescoes. There is also Lihada, which
is surrounded by forestland with its seaside settlement Aghios
Georgios close by. At Profitis Elias there is a cave with stalactites.
An excursion to Paleochori is pleasant as the village is very
green amid plane trees and running streams. At the Northwest point
of the island there is the convent of Aghios Georgios with a woodcarved
altar screen and valuable relics.
Throughout
Euboea, traditions are preserved, as well as picturesque local
customs and all the year round there are various local country
fairs in villages and at monasteries with folkdancing, folksongs
and meals of local specialities.
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