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... REGION: Peloponnese ... Prefecture: Laconia
Byzantine State of Mystras
As you approach Mistras (5 km from Sparta) you feel as though you're making a pilgrimage to Byzantine Greece. Going up the hill, you enter through the castle gate, which welcomes you to wander for a while, through the narrow lanes of this once invincible fortress. The castle of Mistras was built by the Franks in 1249 in their attempt to establish their supremacy over the Peloponnese. Their catastrophic defeat at Pelagonia (1259) forced them to hand over Mistra to the Greeks. The Frankish prince Guillaume de Villehardouin erected the castle. He built bastions for his knights, houses, dungeons, storerooms, courtyards. From up here he ruled over the world of the Evrotas. As time went by, houses were built on the hillside under the Frankish castle, and a town was born whose fate was to become the centre of civilisa- tion and the cradle of the last dynasty of the Byzantine emperors. The houses roundabout are of two or three storeys. With their imposing vaulted roofs and arcades these mansions lead up to the Palace, an architectural creation of the Palaiologues. The throne room, the chapel with its vestiges of Byzantine frescoes, the rooms lighted by large windows with ogival arches, are some of the features of this building whose construction took place in various periods, according to the style prevalling in Constantinople. During its two centuries of Mistras' existence as the Byzantine capital of the Peloponnese many churches and monasteries with domes and chapeis were erected, representing aIi the painting trends of the capital. The most important monument you meet on your way up - and the first to be built - is the Cathedral of Agios iìmitrios. On the floor of the church is the two-headed eagle, symbol of the Palaiologos dynasty, carved into a plaque. According to tradition, this is where Konstantinos stepped when he was crowned King. Next to it stands the carved throne. In 1449, Konstantinos Palaiologos was crowned emperor of Byzantium and he left Mistras for Constantinople. In 1453 the Turks captured Constantinople, and a few years later, in 1460, the same fate befell Mistras. Mistras, the brilliant capital of the Despotate of the Morea, was reduced to an insignificant village. The frescoes in the Cathedral show a shining sky painted by skilfull hands. One wing of the church houses the Museum. Towards the northern corner of the enclosure stand Mistras' two most impressive churches, Agioi Theodori and the Panagia Odigitria, known as the Afentiko. Its wall paintings hold you spellbound. Near the highest gate of the castle stands the church of Agia Sofia, while on the slope to the east is the Panta- nassa monastery, built by the lords of the l5th century. The church is impressive in its elegance and refinement. Its frescoes are filled with bright colour and movement. The Pantanassa today is a hospitable convent with clean cells looked after by gentle nuns, the only living beings in Mistras. Strolling through the narrow lanes of the dead city, you finally come to the Perivlepto, the monastery built under a rock with marvellous frescoes. It is from here that the ascent to the castle begins. Winding stair- ways, arcades, coutyards. Everything in ruins: crumbling facades, turrets with ravaged opening, damaged plaques, decayed mansions. At some point you reach the bare part of the mountain. Below you stretches the endless valley. In front of you a steep path leads to the top of the hill. In an impregnable position, its ramparts and fortification impose themseives on the landscape. The security this castle offered in the face of foreign and local enemies permitted its bishops, lords, enlightened clerics, founders of schools of philosophy, monks, artists, writers and other men of intellect, like Pachomius, Nikephoros Moschopoulos and Gemistos Plethon to transform this town, "protected by God", into a cradle of the Re- naissance. Southeastern Laconia The farthest finger of the Peloponnese. The Laconic guif on the west, the Mirtoo sea on the east. Along both coasts and at some distance from the sea there are scattered villages. One beach after another and then another even larger. Everything baked by the sun and basted by the sea. On the southern coast of the peninsula, looking onto the Mirtoo sea, stands the former Byzantine-Venetian fortress-state of Monemvassia, on its rocky promontory. From afar it looks as if it could be an island. In Greek Monemvassia means one entrance: the long causeway joining it to the mainland was and is the only access to the roc.

 

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