Mountainous
region of the central Peloponnesus of ancient Greece. The pastoral
character of Arcadian life together with its isolation partially
explains why it was represented as a paradise in Greek and Roman
bucolic poetry and in the literature of the Renaissance.
The region is not exactly coextensive with the present-day department,
Arkadia, which has an area of 4,419 square km and extends on the
east to the Gulf of Argolis; the capital of the department is
Tripolis. The plateau of Arcadia, with basins at elevations of
500 to 1,000 m, is bounded on the north by the Erimanthos and
Killini mountains and is itself divided by numerous subsidiary
ranges. In eastern Arcadia the ranges enclose a series of plains
drained only by underground channels. The western plateau is more
open, with isolated mountains through which wind the Alpheus River
and its tributaries. One of those, the Ládhon, provides
hydroelectric power at a dam and reservoir. A region of erratic
rainfall, Arcadia has a few vineyards but no olive trees. There
are patches of oak forest, but the eastern reaches are drier and
less verdant.
In
ancient times Arcadia was bounded on the north by Achaea, on the
south by Messenia and Laconia, on the east by Argolis, and on
the west by Elis.It was thus cut off from the coast on all sides.
Because it was isolated from the rest of mainland Greece, Arcadia
was not occupied by the Dorians during their invasion of Greece
(1100-1000 BC), and it retained a dialect that still resembles
that of the Greeks who settled in Cyprus (the Arcado-Cypriot dialects).
By 550 BC Tegea, Mantinea, and the smaller Arcadian towns had
all accepted forced alliances with Sparta, and discord between
the towns subsequently prevented them from uniting against Spartan
power. Most Arcadians remained faithful to Sparta during the Peloponnesian
War (431-404 BC), though in 370 BC the Arcadian League, with its
capital at Megalopolis, united the Arcadians for a few decades
before internal discord paralyzed their confederation.
In Roman times Arcadia fell into decay. It was a scene of conflict
during the War of Greek Independence (1821-29). The land of Arcadia
Leonidion, sea and lush plain. Old mansions with court- yards
and high walled gardens. Houses with symmetrical windows and skylights.
Artfully designed chimneys. Painted shutters. Decorated doorways.
Stately houses with wood-panelled floors and moulded ceilings.
As you stroll around you feel tradition coming alive with your
every step in this lovely town. Holy Saturday in Leonidion. The
bells toll in a festive way. Firecrackers hiss and bang in the
streets non-stop. "Judas" figures burn outside the churches.
Noise, com- motion.
Lights are carried from one neighbourhood to another.The skies
aglow with the beams of countless lanterns. On Easter Sunday the
festivities reach their peak. Roast meat, wine, sweets, fritters,
offered free to aII comers. Locals and strangers. A gesture of
traditional gentility.This is Leonidion. Nobility, sunshine, gardens
loveliness and generosity. Further on there's Plaka, a chacming
little port with a pebbly beach. Shining next to the sea.
To the south, Poulithra, with its old stone houses and marvellous
beaches. To the north, little bays. Sabatiki, Livadi quaint unforget-
table fishing hamlets. Tiros beach. An enormous expanse of sand
and gleaming pebbles. Relaxation and warmth. Just above it the
beach of Agios Andreas. Dazzing azure seas. Fishing caiques and
tavernas. Sky, sea and land in endless serenity. Paralia Astros.
White on a green and blue background. A verse from a poem. Blue
and the slap of oars on the water. Shady trees and traditional
restaurants. The sweet smell of grilling octopus. A fisherman
is untangling his net on the wharf. From here the road branches
off to the mountains, Mt. Parnon. The drive is exciting, the countryside
wild and unspoilt. Tiny viilages, farmhouses. Platanos, Prastos,
Agios Petros. Cottages, manor houses towers and monasteries. The
monasteries of Loukou, Elonas, Palaiopanagia Eortakousti, Karia,
John the Forerunner. Awesome, silent and strangely comforting.
Lighted candles and faint frescoes.
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