Ikaria,
a mountainous, thickly forested island, perpetuates the myth of
Ikarus and his fall into the sea near its shores after his bold
attempt to reach thesun with his waxen wings.
 In
antiquity the island was called Makri (Long) and Aeoliki because
of its rectangular shape, and Ichthyoessa because of its abundant
fish. The south coast of the island is barren with steep cliffs,
while the north is somewhat more gentle. Its scenery is wild and
rugged, with the Atheras mountain range (called Pramios in antiquity)
running the length of the island, furrowed by lush ravines, gorges
and gullies that descend all the way to the coast.
Aghios
Kirikos, the island’s capital and chief port, is built on
a hillside, the balconies of its houses almost invisible amongst
their flowers. Though small, its archaeological museum, containing
Neolithic, Geometric and Roman finds, is of considerable interest.
Southwest
of the capital, the first village you come to is Therma Lefkadas,
where mineral springs bubble up through its sands. Beyond it,
there is a string of sheltered ports and hamlets with houses made
of dry stonewalls until the road ends in the wooded village of
Hrissostomos.
 Returning
to Aghios Kirikos and taking the road to the northeast this time,
your first stop might be Therma, known since antiquity for its
radioactive springs. There is little trace of the ancient settlement.
Continuing
on in this direction, you nextcome to Evdilos, Ikaria’s second
port and its former capital. The little village of Kambos, 2.5
kilometres from Evdilos, is of interest thanks to its small archaeological
museum with finds from the area. It occupies the site of ancient
Oinoe, (Inoi), once renowned for its grapes and, according to
some myths, the first place in Greece to cultivate the vine. All
that remains of it today is the ancient walls, an aqueduct and
a building known as Palatia (the Palaces).
In
the mountain hamlet of Kossikia, the 10th century castle of Nikaria
is a typical example of Byzantine architecture. Armenistis is
the next stop, a region of thick pine forest with an abundance
of fresh water and a superb beach. Hristos tis Rahis, a village
jutting into the open sea like a stone balcony, is also picturesque.
If you continue on, don’t miss the 11th century Monastery
of the Virgin of Mounte, which has frescoes and a panoramic view.
Not
far from Armenistis is the miniature port of Nas, once the site
of one of antiquity’s most celebrated sanctuaries dedicated
to Artemis. Today nothing is left but traces of the quay and parts
of the temple floor.
To
visit Ikaria’s other charming villages and beaches, particularly
those on the south coast, you will have to take a caique from
Aghios Kirikos.
There
is a yacht refuelling station at Aghios Kirikos.
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