At
about 100km from Thessaloniki, in the direction to Kavala, just
beyond the Strymon river bridge, amid low hills (left), are the
scattered remains of ancient Amphipolis.
The
old bridge over the Strymon is guarded by the Lion of Amphipolis
statue; the colossal animal, reassembled from fragments in 1936-37,
has been mounted on a pedestal built on the ancient foundation
with blocks of the 2C BC dredged from the Strymon, where they
may have been reused in a medieval dam. Originally the lion may
have honored Laomedon, the sailor of Mytilene who later became
the governor of Syria.
The
city of Amphipolis was built on a commanding eminence (154m) above
the E bank of the Strymon, just below its egress from Lake Achinos
(now drained), ca. 5km from the sea. A loop of the river flowed
round the W half of the city walls.
The
place, which belonged to the Edonians of Thrace, was originally
called "Ennea Odoi" ('Nine Ways'), for which reason,
according to Herodotus (VII, 114), Xerxes on crossings its bridges
buried alive nine local boys and nine girls. It was colonized
as Amphipolis by the Athenians in 437 BC after an abortive attempt
28 years earlier.
Deriving
its wealth from the gold mines of the Pagaion mountain, Amphipolis
was one of their most important N possessions: hence the consternation
when it surrendered to the Spartan Brasidas in 424. The historian
(and general) Thucydides saved its port of Eion, at the mouth
of the Strymon, but, for failing to save Amphipolis as well, he
was exiled for 20 years by his countrymen (Thuc. IV, 104-6; V,
26). In 421 the Athenians made an unsuccessful attempt to retake
the city; in the cavalry battle both Kleon, the Athenian demagogue
and general, and his opponent Brasidas were killed.
Amphipolis
was seized by Philip II of Macedon in 358. After the battle of
Pydna (168) it became the capital of one of the four republics
provisionally set up by the Romans. St. Paul passed through Amphipolis
on his way to Thessaloniki ('Acts,' XVII, 1). The city was a station
on the Via Egnatia and the seat of a bishop in the Early Christian
period. Excavations have been made since 1956 by the Greek Archaeological
Service.
Following
the road to Drama, soon (left) there is a small sign in Greek
(Macedonian Tomb). Two tombs lie on the hill right of the road:
one had been plundered but the other yielded precious articles
now in Kavala museum. Further up the road, another sign (left)
indicates ancient walls and a short climb above the road, further
sections of the defenses can be seen. Substantial remains of a
Classical gymnasium have recently been discovered in this vicinity.
After
another 300m is the turning (left) for the modern village. On
the hill opposite the turn is a Hellenist cemetery of rock-cut
tombs. In the village, the church contains a relief of Totoes,
the Thracian equivalent of Hypnos. Signs lead, through the village
and up the hill, towards the main archaeological area, on the
acropolis of the ancient city. The principal remains so far excavated
are not of the Classical period but of five churches of the 5
and 6C AD, four basilica and one with hexagonal internal layout.
Some of the mosaics (including fine and varied representations
of birds) can be seen, protected by wooden shelters; others remain
semi-permanently covered.
A
short distance further up the track are the remains of a Roman
house, again under a shelter to protect its mosaics. It has a
paved courtyard with a well in addition to mosaic floors and an
apsidal room which originally had painted plaster decoration.
Beside the house and not yet fully investigated is a building
with statue dedications in front. 100m below these structures,
down a track, is a remarkable Hellenistic house (covered) with
fine painted decoration employing architectural motifs of the
kind which formed the basis for the First Pompeian style. A Shrine
of Clio borders a deep ravine to the SE.
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