Throughout
the ages Ithaca has been known as the home of Odysseus. For years
Homer’s hero wandered before he finally returned to his island
kingdom. Though he visited beautiful, exotic, far-flung lands,
Ithaca never left his mind for a moment.
And even today, once you’ve been to Ithaca, it’s difficult
to forget this small, mountainous island with its captivating
coves that conjure up some earthly paradise.
 Ithaca
is separated from Cephalonia by a channel some 2 to 4 kilometres
wide. The west coast of the island is steep and almost barren
in contrast to the green, gentle shoreline on the east.
The
capital and largest settlement is Ithaki or Vathi; its red-roofed
delightful houses set amidst enchanting scenery at the end of
the deep closed bay of Molos. Taking the capital as a starting
point, it’s easy to get to know the island’s landmarks.
Three
kilometres to the northwest lies the so-called Cave of the Nymphs
(Nimfon Cave). Here according to the myth, Odysseus hid the gifts
bestowed upon him by the Phaeacians who deposited him upon Ithaca’s
shores ten long years after the end of the Trojan War.
Also
worth visiting is the medieval Monastery of the Archangels at
Perahori.
North
of the capital and 600 meters above sea level, the Kathara Monastery
(Moni Katharon) has a unique view of the island from its bell
tower. On the horizon you can make out the mountains of Akarnania,
the Echinades islets, the peaks of Zakinthos, the eastern coast
of Cephalonia and even the entrance to the Gulf of Patras.
The
bay of Polis to the west is the site of another cave (Loizos’
cave). This one yielded up sherds on which were carved inscriptions
testifying to the worship of Artemis, Hera and Athena.
Even more interesting, in the cave were also found recently twelve
tripods similar to the other that the Phaeacians were supposed
to have given to Odysseus.
Stavros,
a village 17 kilometres northwest of Ithaki, is a good base from
which to explore the northern section of the island.
About
1 kilometer north of Stavros is Pelikata; excavations on this
hillside between the bays of Polis and Frikes brought to light
remains of a small Bronze Age settlement. The finds unearthed
there reinforce the theory that the ancient city of Ithaca lies
somewhere in the vicinity.
Kioni
and Frikes, typically Ionian villages, on the northeast coast
are unspoilt, wonderful places for a short excursion or an extended
sojourn.
Ithaca
offers lovely beaches for bathing, caves for exploring and uncrowded
hamlets where noisy nightlife is unheard of.
“When
you set out for Ithaca”, wrote the poet Constantine Kavafis.
He was refering to Ithaca as one’s ultimate destination.
Thus, Ithaca, this verdant Ionian island, may become your own
favorite place, a place that draws you back year after year, when
you plan your summer holiday.
|
