Crete
the land of Daidalos and Ikaros. Of Minoan vases and famous frescoes.Shining
and starlit, with its black baggy breeches and fringed kerchiefs.
Romantic Crete with its sea, rocks and gleaming plateaus. Crete
land of full-bodied wine and pungent tsipouro.
Sleepless Crete land of endless feasts under star-student skies.
Crete scented with wild fennel and fresh basil. Dizzying Crete
of the warlike dances. Crete, home of El Greco, Kornaros, Kazantzakis
and Prevelakis. Crete whose door is always wide open to both East
and West. The dream of Crete, where a person might soar in flight.
Crete, the island of Miracles.
This
island - the largest in Greece - separates the Aegean From the
Libyan Sea, marks the boundary between Europe and Africa.Majestic
mountains rise in its center - the White Mountains, Psiloritis
Dikti. Its plateus are split by deep gorges and end up in fertile
valleys. The scenery is constantly changing. In one place harsh
and barren in another wooded and gentle. Its villages smothered
in greenery. Olive trees orange groves, vineyards early vegetable
market gardens. Old stone farmhouses, monasteries and villages
perched on mountain ridges castels and and chapels forgotten on
steep slopes. Shores lined with forbidding rocks, often inaccessible,
but also lots of endless sandy or pebbly beaches. Crete is renowned
for the variety of its vegetation and wildlife in its chestnut,
oak and cypress forests. Not to mention its palm forests (at Vai
and Preveli) and its cedar forests (at Gavdos and Hrissi). Medicinal
herbs and fragment shrubs - laudanum, dittany marjoran and thyme
- grow in rocky areas and the mountain tops are home of the Kri-Kri
or Cretan goat.
The
main cities-ports on Crete - Chania, Rethimno Iraklio Agios Nikolaos,
Sitia - all grew up on the north side, which is more benign topographically.
Ierapetra is the only port on the south coast, on the shores of
the Libyan Sea, facing Africa. This islands fertile soil
and towering peaks witnessed the development of one of most important
civilizations on Earth, the Minoan (2800-1150 BC.).
In
succesive phace the Minoans built palace-states - the famous
palatial centres of Knossos, Phaistos, Malia, Zakros (1700-1450
BC). Their painters and ceramists show us the limits the refinement
of art reach. Their frescoes bring us close to the soul of that
word , peace-loving, light-hearted, but also powerful. They
bring us close to the sea and its wealth. A geological catastrophe
- the eruption of the volcano of Santorini in 1450 BC - halted
the Minoan civilization at its height. But life did not cease.
Through shipping commerce and trade with other peoples - the
Phoenicians, Syrians, Egyptian - opened up new horizons. With
the invasion of the Achaians and the Dorians on the island the
new cities of Lato and Aptera were founded. Lato became the
most important city on Crete (7th century BC). Until the Roman
occupation (69-330 AD). The most distinguished center in those
days was Gortyn. But Christianity came to the island early.
During the Byzantine era the wealth of Crete was shown off in
the mosaic floors of its basilicals and in half the churches
of Greece. But many others had their eye on these riches. First
Crete fell into the hands of the Arabs (824) for one and half
centuries (961). Handak, present-day Iraklio was founded. Then
in 1204, the island passed to the Venetians.
They
fortified the old castles at Handak and built mew ones at Gramnoussa,
Spinaloga, Fragokastello, Ierapetra, Palaiochora. They
broke the ground for new cities (Chania and Rethimno) and built
the fortifications essential to their defense. Inside the walls
the cities developed with narrow, convoluted alleyways and small
residential blocks, interspersed with decorate piazzas, fountains,
churches and palaces, remains of which can still be seen today.
Although the island was shaken from time to time by the rebellious
populace, it continued to develop both economically and culturally.
Painting and literature flourished. Domenicos Theotokopoulos
(El Greco), Damaskinos and other iconographers paint exquisite
portraits of the Virgin and Christ. Under the vaulted gates
and arched windows troubadours passed singing ballads by Hortantzis
about the suffering of Erotokritos and Erophili. In 1645 the
Muslim conquerors set foot on the island for the first time.
In 1669 the whole of Crete fell to the Turks. Not until 1913
was the island united with the rest of Greece. This island with
its clear, warm sea boundless beaches lined with tamarisks,
splendid plateaus and mild starry nights has more to offer than
its past, its gorges, unscaled peaks and climate. Today it continues
to live fully and to develop, its cities particularly changing
in appearance from one day to next, in contrast to the many
unchanging villages where life goes on in the same rhythm it
has for centuries.
There
are hundreds of cafes where one sit in the shade of a spreading
plane, oak or mulberry tree and sip a sweat
or medium coffee, or a glass of tsikoudia
(raki) while playing a game of cards or tavli
(backgammon). There are dozens of tavernas and ouzeries serving
some tasty meze, a specialty of the
area. Yogurt and honey, sweet tarts (kaltzounia), pies made
of wild greens flavored with fennel, fried cheese (staka), rabbit
stew, cheese pie from Hora Sfakion, cockles, boiled goat. In
the city of Chania, at Malaxa, at Vrisses, and other villages
in the area of Rethimno, in Iraklio and its villages and in
the whole district of Lassithi. Fish, sea urchins, octopus and
cuttlefish cooked on coal and fried squid to be tasted at seaside
tavernas. And everywhere the delectable Cretan wine. Every saints
feastday is celebrated with gusto at dozens of villages throughout
the island; all Crete throbbing to the sound of the Cretan lyre
and the rhythm of the local dances, the pentozali and the sousta.
Meanwhile the housewives are preparing a steamed Cretan pilaf
and special holiday fritters (xerotigana). In the shop windows
of bustling Iraklio, picturesque Rethimno, and Chania, elegant
furs, precious jewelry and artist silverware attract the visitors
attention. In the shops of lovely Sitia and tranquil Ierapetra
and in mountainous Anogia one is impressed by the spread out
patanies, traditional local woven fabrics
in dazzling colors, and everywhere one sees skillfully crafted
ceramics and leather goods.
In
the Stivanadika district of Chania (Skridolf.
St) traditional boots (stivania) are still made in the old-fashioned
way, because though it may seen strange even today there are
Cretans who still wear their traditional costume. In the marketplace
of same city, the one of its kind, but also in similar shops
all over the island , every kind of food, fruit and vegetable
produced in the fertile valleys, hot houses and mountain regions,
is laid out on display. Exotic avocados, Belgian endive and
bananas, juicy oranges and fragment melons, succulent figs and
tasty prickly pears, delicious grapes, sweet tomatoes, tender
cucumbers, fresh-picked greens from the hillsides, snails, mouth-watering
sardines, tempting lobster, kid from the islet of Gavdos, honey
perfumed with thyme and wonderful cheeses - graviera (gruyere),
myzithra (ricotta), fresh white cheese, and soft luscious staka.
The evenings are enchanting spent next to the intoxicating aroma
of a jasmine vine in an open-air cinema, seated in the comfortable
chairs of a pastry shop, gathered round the table of a fish-taverna
right by the sea, strolling in solitude on a remote, deserted
beach, or why not, enjoying the rhythms of rock in a discotheque
or a bar or conversing in the spacious lounge of a luxury hotel.
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