Bewitching
scenery and an invigourating climate are the main features of
Evritania prefecture. It is the mot thickly wooded, best-watered
region in Greece. There are so many fir trees in Evritania that
you think you’re in the midst of a magnificent endless forest,
and in fact the region has been nicknamed “The Switzerland
of Greece” for this reason.
 According
to Homer, the first known inhabitants of northern Evritania were
the Dolopes, who took part in the campaign against Troy. During
the Byzantine era, the people of Evritania had the rare privileges
of selfgovernment and tax exemption. For this reason the northern
part of the district was also called “Agrafa”, (unwritten),
because the residents were not listed in the Imperial tax registers.
Its mountainous countryside also discouraged would-be counquerors.
Karpenissi,
capital of the prefecture, is located at the foothills of Mt.
Timfristos, at an altitude of 960 meters.  It
most probably owes its name to the maple trees that abounded in
the area in the 12th century (Carpen = maple tree, Carpenis =
land of maple trees). The clear atmosphere, the dry healthy climate,
the plane trees, fir and chestnut forests make Karpenissi an ideal
place for winter and summer holidays. Among the town’s most
characteristic features are the workshops that produce handmade
brass bells for animals. The tinkling of the bells being tested
is a picturesque, melodious welcome.
When
eating at a Karpenissi taverna, try the feta cheese roasted in
wax paper and the local sausages, and before you leave buy some
goat butter and cheese, chestnuts and walnuts. You’ll also
be impressed by the lovely handwooven fabrics made on traditional
looms and the skilfully carved wooden objects on sale in the shops.
The
church of Aghia Triada, the Gorgianades and the site of Kefalovrisso
are among the places in the vicinity we recommend that you visit.
Just 5 km. southwest of the capital, concluding one of the most
beautiful drives, you come to Korishades, a village of well-preserved
stone mansions. Here the GNTO has recently renovated and opened
several traditional homes as guesthouses.  Not
far away there are traces of ancient ruins, which have not yet
been studied. Many scholars say that this was the ancient capital
of Evritania, Oichalia.
Next
comes Mikro Horio, a marvellous place for a summer holiday, nestled
in a small fir forest interspersed with apple, cherry and pear
orchards. The view from here is magnificent. Megalo Horio lies
nearby, situated in an equally lovely setting on the slopes of
Kaliakouda, opposite Mt. Helidona. A little trip around the area
will never be forgotten. At Klidi, a lush, majestic gorge, stands
the Byzantine church of Aghios Athanassios.
After
a drive through trees alongside the Trikerioti River, you arrive
at the stately monastery of the Virgin Proussiotissa, which possesses
a miracle – working icon said to have been painted by St.
Luke. The monastery church was built in 1754 and is full of remakable
icons, woodcarvings, sacred treasures and silver utensils. There
is also a small museum in the monastery containing some personal
mementoes of Karaiskakis, the Revolutionary hero. On the 15th
and 23rd of August, the monastery becomes a place of pilgrimage,
attracting the devout from allover Greece.
 Opposite
the monastery stands the chapel of Aghii Pantes, decorated with
old icons. Above it loom Karaiskakis’ watch towers.
The
village of Proussos, 800 meters above sea level, is not only picturesque;
it has an interesting cave, the Black Cave or “Apokleistra”
as it is also called. Believed to have been the site of an oracle,
the cave has two entrances, one in the village, the other some
distance away.
East
of Karpenissi, the road from the verdant village of Aghios Nikolaos
to Krikelo (1,120 m. alt.), which has a charming square with little
cafes, passes through some especially beautiful, sprucefilled
scenery. Near Krikelo is historic Kokalia. Even though the road
is no longer paved after Krikelo, it is well worth making the
effort to get to Domnitsa, a village crowded with little churches
containing superb wooden icon screens and icons. The region is
full of wildlife – hare, partridge, woodcock, and if you
are in luck, you may even spot a wild boar.
West
of Karpenissi lies Anatoliki (Eastern) Frangista with Ditiki (Western)
Frangista 4 km further on, a lush area with a wonderful climate.
Here the little church of the Saviour (Sotir) is worth a visit;
built in 1725, has its walls covered with byzantine frescoes.
From
Ditiki Frangista the road leads north to the village of Granitsa,
whose folk museum is well known.
The
more intrepid will want to venture as far as Agrafa, a remote
village encircled by thick spruce forests. If you like fishing,
the Agrafiotis River is full of trout. All these mountain villages
are “buried” under snow for many months of the year.
Continuing south on the road from Ditiki Frangista, you reach
the lake of Kremaston, the largest artifical lake in Greece, and
from there on to the prefecture of Etoloakarnania.
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