Leaving
Messolongi and passing beyond Andirrion the road runs a field's
length from the sea, and for a brief period affords a long view
right down the Gulf of Corinth. At 48km (30 miles) is Nafpaktos,
a charming little town (ca 10,000 inhab.) with a good beach. The
picturesque, mainly Venetian, Castle, from which ramparts descend
to enclose the little Harbour, recalls its medieval past when
it was known in the West as Lepanto. The plateia (square), shaded
by jacaranda trees, looks across the Gulf to Mt Panakhaikon.
Here
in 1571 the Turkish admiral fitted out before the decisive Battle
of Lepanto, fought in fact off the Echinades. The allied fleet,
under Don John of Austria, natural son of the Emp. Charles V,
included contingents from Venice, Genoa, the Papal States, Spain,
Sicily, and Naples. The
Turks were assisted by the Bey of Alexandria and the Bey Algiers.
The result was the overwhelming victory of Christendom and the
Moslem sea-power suffered a blow from which it never recovered.
The young Cervantes, creator of 'Don Quixote,' here lost the use
of his left hand.
Ancient
Nafpaktos, a town of the Ozolian Locrians, was taken in 455 by
the Athenians. Here the established a colony of Messenians, who
had been dispossessed by their Spartan conquerors. The place played
an important part in the Peloponnesian War; it was successfully
defended in 429 by Phormion and in 426 by Demosthenes against
the Spartans, and became a base for the Sicilian expedition.
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