Occupying
the western portion of Central Greece, the prefecture of Etoloakarnania
combines the beauty of both the sea and the mountains.
The
capital of the prefecture is Messolonghi (244 km from Athens),
the sacred city of Greece. The heroic exodus of the “Free
Besieged” was a bright spot in our modern history as well
as a source of inspiration for poets such as Solomos and Byron
as well as for other artists.
 The
city was founded in the 16th century on three islets at the mouth
of the Acheloos and Evinos Rivers, which were later united by
silting to form three scenic lagoons.
On
entering the city you will see the Exodus gate and the “Garden
of the Heroes”. In the central squaqre, the Town Hall houses
the picture gallery.
If
you’re a history buff, then you’ll want to visit Ancient
Kalidon, Ancient Pleuron, “the castle of Kira Rhini”,
as the locals call it, and the Windmill, a Revolutionary monument.
About
6 km. north of town, in a landscape filled with plane trees and
running water, stands the historic monastery of Aghios Simeon
(17th c.). This is where 1,800 of the besieged sought refuge and
were saved. Since that time, every year on Whitmonday, a lively
folk festival takes place.
 The
small island of Etoliko lies 13 km. northwest of Messolongi and
is connected to the mainland by an arched stone bridge. From a
distance its view is fascinating to the eye of the visitor.
Some
50 km northwest of Messolonghi the summer resort of Astakos, a
picturesque market town, overlooks the gulf of the same name.
Its extended unspoilt beaches with fine white sand and the sea
of every shade of blue at Aghios Yorgis, Asprogiali and Vela make
the area perfect for quiet, carefree holidays.
Boats
leave Astakos daily for Cephalonia and Ithaca. Another sight worth
seeing in the region is the monastery of the Profitis Ilias (15th
c.) near the village bearing the name of Karaiskakis, where the
illustrious Revolutionary used to have his headquarters.
Still
following the coast, the road leads to Mitikas, a village built
at the end of the gulf of the same name. From here you can find
a little boat to take you across to Kalamos and Kastos, small
islands with marvellous beaches. Just a hop from Mitikas are the
interesing ruins of the ancient city of Alizea, and there is a
very pretty beach at Paliomagaza. A few kilometers north of Mitikas
you come to Paleros, a fishing village with another lovely beach.
After
Paleros the coastal road that winds up at Aktion loops inland
before reaching Vonitsa, a pretty seaside and very green town
at the entrance to the Amvrakikos gulf, built atop the foundations
of ancient Anaktorion. At “Aghios Petros” there are
ruins of ancient temples and walls, while on the hill above a
ruined medieval castle stands sentinel near the chapel of Divine
Wisdom (12th c.) fashioned like a Byzantine fortress.
Continuing
west, 15 km. on the road one comes to Aktion, renowned in history
as the site of the great naval battle between Octavian and Marc
Antony. Here lies the famous “Channel of Cleopatra”,
the area through which the fleet belonging to the celebrated queen
of Egypt was anchored prior to its defeat at Aktion. Here can
also be seen the ruins of a Venetian citadel and an archaeological
site. East of Vonitsa, the road passes near Thirio, which has
a fine archaeological museum, before reaching Amfilohia.
 The
buildings of Amfilohia cover the slopes of two hills, providing
a panoramic view towards the end of the gulf towards Arta. Amfilohian
Argos lies 10 km. further north.
Nearby
beaches for bathing and fishing exist at Sparto, Ai Yorgi and
Bouka, where the old monastery of Aghios Nikolaos is located.
Further north, at Menidi you can feast on all manner of seafood
at its waterfront ouzeri and tavernas.
South
of Amfilohia, on the national road towards Agrinio, we suggest
you make a little detour and go to Katouna, on the shores of lake
Amvrakia to admire its fabulous view.
Agrinio
(35 km. north of Messolonghi) is an important tobacco – producing
center with good facilities for tourists. The archaeological museum,
the Papastratios Municipal Library, and the grove of Aghios Christoforos
on the hillside with a panoramic view, are some of the sights
worth seeing in town.
Other
recommended stops include a visit to Angelokastro with its Byzantine
monastery of the Pantocrator; the ruins of a 12th century Byzantine
fortress at Melagi Hora (4 km NW); the Klissoura gorge with the
monastery of Aghia Eleoussa; and the enchanting landscape around
the Aheloos dam. East of Agrinio, along lake Trihonida, you come
to the vlllage of Thermo, near the ruins of Ancient Thermo, where
there is an interesting museum.
On
the coast road that unites Fokida with Etoloakarnania you arrive
at Nafpaktos, the prefecture’s third largest town, famous
for the battle that took place off its shores in 1571. This market
town with its atractive Venetian castle and circular walled harbour
will delight even the most demanding visitors. The well-preserved
citadel, with its series of ramparts winding up to the top of
the hill, is one of the most beautiful in Greece.
All
along this coast the sea is crystal clear. At Psani and Gribava,
where the plane trees grow down to the water’s edge, the
scenery is idyllic, while at Hiliadou (11 km. to the east) the
shore is just right for swimming.
The
mountains near the town are the most thickly wooded with spruce
and firs in all Greece; of a rare beauty, they are worth visiting
in summer and winter alike. Platanas, known for its forest which
contains dozens of species of trees, Arahova, Perkos, Dorvitsia,
Simos, Ano Hora, Terpsithea, Elatou, Hrissovo and Ambelakiotissa
– tiny villages in the woods 700 to 1000 meters above sea
level – will beguile you with their primitive beauty.
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